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WIP Castle Stuart Golf Links


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#1 rmoor13

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 07:34 AM

This is a course I've been working on.  Just need to finish up with planting and tee markers.  What I like about this course is the green complexes - really awesome greens.  The 1m lidar is really accurate, shows all the swales and hollows really well.  Fun to play.  There is a lot of gorse on the course, so I'm using 2-plane trees for that.  This pano I made for the course for the Links game turned out pretty well, in game, a little blurry but not bad.  The Kessock Bridge and mountains in the background are from actual photos of the area.  Clubhouse and Structures I made for Links as well.  Just had to edit the windows in Blender to be reflective.  Really lacking for plants and grasses.   I have found a good ocean soundtrack that plays on holes that are along the Morey Firth.  Here are some pics...

 

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#2 Dropzone73

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 09:22 AM

Nice! That backround looks very good.

Only thing I would add is a bunchy normal maps to the rough textures. Rough just looks too smooth as it is. And adding grass to all rough areas is too FPS heavy so it's always important to have a good texture. When you have normal map textures assigned to your rough layer, it doesn't require so much planted grass.

Your overlay image looks quite blurry too. Is it in 8192 resolution? Bunker edges shoulden't be that soft and overall feeling is, that the overlay image is missing too much details.

The course will be great! Keep up the good work and don't rush.



#3 rmoor13

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 10:08 AM

Yes it is blurry at 8192. I had the choice of 2 overhead images, one with almost no color, and the one you see.  Problem is the course pretty much runs north/south so the course is over a wide area, and the image was just a bit blurry.  The bunkers in real life are rather irregular also, so they're not real sharply defined in the overhead.  I will experiment with rough normals, thats a good idea.   It would be nice if I could grunge them up better.  As it is I have just a detail texture and the same normal texture applied to it.  I think I'm going to put up a beta version now, then I can take my time and experiment with things before the final version comes out.  Thanks for your tips.



#4 rmoor13

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 10:56 AM

Dropzone, by the way, what did you use on your rough on Kytaja.  That's the look I want to achieve.  Looks fantastic.



#5 andrewjjones43#

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 11:29 AM

A word of caution with the planting. I did my home course West Lancashire and planted grass liberally. It ran perfectly on my pc but when it was used in multiplayer there were serious lags in the screen refresh when moving view etc. I’m doing another links course at the moment and trying to restrict planting to areas that are in play but it’s never looking quite right. I was advised to change the object distance settings to help with the problem too.

#6 Dropzone73

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 01:48 PM

Dropzone, by the way, what did you use on your rough on Kytaja.  That's the look I want to achieve.  Looks fantastic.

If I remember right, it's the MJ's advanced texture assigned into normal slot. Textures came with Mike's tutorial project and are in his roughs also. There are several of those textures and you can adjust their intensity level. Beside that, I also used the real normal map texture where the "scrathes" and cart path figures come from. I think it's the Mike's semirough's black and white -texture converted to normal map in Crazybump. And in semirough, I also used normal map that's made of the texture itself in Crazybump.

 

You must try different types of texture files in normal slots and see what they do. But the best advice is to go back to Mike's normal slot textures and adjust their bunchiness. I found happiness, after seeking the best solution from the splines of the best designer.

 

It's also wise to change the size of the "normal" texture. If you want to have more crunch, you must use a bigger normal texture, for example 20-30 meters instead of 5 meters (think for example rough and deep rough). The basic texture can be a little larger too (for example from 3 to 5 meters) But of course, when using the normal that's made of the grass texture itself, it's wise to have them the same size. Then you'll have those grass blades illuminated nicely by the directional light.

 

Check out also my 4 holes version of Pebble Beach. There are even better textures than in Kytaja. And not too much planted grass.

https://drive.google...cJT6EeTTtk/view



#7 Dropzone73

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 02:57 PM

Yes it is blurry at 8192. I had the choice of 2 overhead images, one with almost no color, and the one you see.  Problem is the course pretty much runs north/south so the course is over a wide area, and the image was just a bit blurry.  The bunkers in real life are rather irregular also, so they're not real sharply defined in the overhead.  I will experiment with rough normals, thats a good idea.   It would be nice if I could grunge them up better.  As it is I have just a detail texture and the same normal texture applied to it.  I think I'm going to put up a beta version now, then I can take my time and experiment with things before the final version comes out.  Thanks for your tips.

I must ask you a question. If the fairways, first cuts and bunkers aren't sharp IRL, why do you try to make yours sharp then? And you even use that darkening in your fairway's fringe texture (= darkened first cut / rough texture) to give it a look of a shadow when fairway changes to first cut/rough. If it's almost faded in real life, I don't think it needs any shadow effect between them?

 

Fade fairway to first cut or to rough and don't use the dirt lip texture in bunkers if there isn't dirt lip. You can try to fade your sand spline the way you fade any other spline. And you can use the overlay image method in the "dirt lip" texture too if you want to fade those edges smoothlier. Try different methods and you'll find the best solution for you and for your course. There isn't one perfect set of splines for all the courses.



#8 Charles

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 06:29 PM

Castle Stuart is a great course. Hope this version will be a great rendition! Thanks for building it for the game. Looking forward to it.


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#9 crazycorey44

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 07:30 PM

I noticed the greens are rough in some areas that could be smoothed, wish I'm sure you will get to at some point and the steep hills along the sides of some holes need to have red hazards around them due to when a ball goes over the cliffs, you can not get back up the hill to the fairway, even with a full height full meter 64W.

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#10 rmoor13

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 10:57 AM

Thanks Corey for pointing this out.  I've read here in the forums the best bet probably is to make those areas OOB.  I'll try to snake the OOB spline between holes and include that whole hillside.  



#11 Charles

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 03:57 PM

Castle Stuart is a stellar course and hosted the Scottisch Open a couple of times. Not a long course but very beautiful.

 

https://www.castlestuartgolf.com/

 

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RTSM / Pro / In the bag: D,3/7W,1H,5i-60W,P.

* Favorite Designers: Skunky - DoGgs - RobC - IanK - PGA Pro - Gary Norman - DrTwist - Bortimus -

DPRoberts - High Fade - Classic Renditions - Matt Rose - Mikahenrik and ... Mike Jones! *

"Golf is deceptively simple and endlessly complicated; it satisfies the soul and frustrates the intellect.

It is at the same time rewarding and maddening - and without a doubt the greatest game mankind has ever invented".

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#12 crazycorey44

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 05:56 PM

Thanks Corey for pointing this out.  I've read here in the forums the best bet probably is to make those areas OOB.  I'll try to snake the OOB spline between holes and include that whole hillside.  

I am pretty sure you can only have 1 single OB on a course for it to load properly in game, and that 1 OB has to surround the entire course, so making the cliffs just a red hazard should work. Unless you know how to do it differnetly somehow. You can always spread the red stakes out like 40 meters apart, or delete some of the stakes, if there are too many showing. 

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