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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Approach shots    (Part 1)

 

 

Once we have found our way close enough to the green things start to get interesting. If I could take the old adage "Drive for show, putt for dough" I could amend that to "...approach for dough". Now that we are starting to play like scratch golfers in JNPG we are getting much more accurate with our approach shots and in good conditions we should be dropping the ball into birdie territory with our approaches. I'm going to talk about approach shots at a distance of the 5 Iron with a carry of 187 yards down to the 64 Wedge using the Full Shot option. There is a cross-over with the 64W between a Full Shot and a Pitch Shot, with not only the 64W, but other clubs as well. I will explain further a bit later.

 

The main thing to be aware of is the roll-out distances on the green for your approach shots. The caddy gives you the Carry Distance (The C next to the club). That carry distance won't always be accurate given small differences in power as well as other influences on the ball but is a good enough guide to where the ball will land for most purposes. But it's in the roll-out after the ball lands that can cause problems - or otherwise.

 

You've probably noticed that I use the Shot Shaping Tool in some circumstances. The following video gives you an example of the effect raising or lowering the loft of a club has with the Shot Shaper. It can be sort of compared to moving the ball back or forward in the stance in real life. I won't go into a debate about the legitimacy of the Shot Shaper but I can show you some results.

 

In the video I've played three shots - one for each of the middle, top and bottom positions. The important thing to take note of is that each shot carries much the same distance. I've used the Practice fairway so you can see that the power and direction of each shot is the same - or close enough - to make a fair comparison. The Low position carries slightly less as you would think but there's very little in it. What it does show is the difference in the final distance from a high shot to a low shot. It works out to about 11 yards which is fairly significant in terms of an accurate approach.

 

The roll-out is on a fairway obviously and on a green there will be a great variety in results and will depend on slope, wind, firmness and stimp. I think it shows that there are too many variables to have a hard set of rules about where to aim and land your approach shots which means to get the ball close to the hole a certain amount of strategy and insight is needed. 

 

 

 

The next video gives you a graphic example of playing a ball quite severely below your feet (and will have a similar but opposite result with a ball above your feet). I aimed well left which ended up not being enough. A less than perfect strike could have contributed to the dramatic shot well right but it can be expected. The trick is to hit the ball with a pure strike and I have suffered often with a ball staying straight off the club. It was a tough shot because I didn't have a club for the distance as well. C'est la vie. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

 

Approach shots    (Part 2)

 

 

You might have a gap in your shorter club arsenal to accommodate woods or hybrids so it will be necessary to take a bit off your swing to get the right distance if you've got too much club in your hand or you might choose to take a 'not enough' club and overhit it. You should learn to become familiar with those skills because there will be plenty of times when the distance you're faced with will be between clubs. Add in the wind factor and significant elevation and the calculations can become daunting.

 

I don't like to get too technical with decision making. I don't find it all that necessary to make calculations to get the yardage exactly right. I've always found that too many calculations in my head or referencing the yardage book (the map) doesn't necessarily mean the perfect shot - if ever. 

 

In the next video I'm faced with an 150 yard shot with 14 feet of uphill elevation and the slightest of headwinds. I don't have a 9 Iron so my only choice is the 8 iron. Simple so far. 14 foot plus the breeze won't help me to pull it up much so I'll have to take an easy swing. If you refer to the Utilising cameras lesson and if you have decided to use the Low Player Camera ON then the club head would top out somewhere before it gets parallel to the ground. It's not easy to stop that backswing exactly where you want even if you knew where that point was. And that's even if you maintain a slowish backswing. 

 

 

 

 

And this is the point I'm trying to make - it can never be an exact science but you can make a fair estimation and hope that the stroke you've put on the ball comes off. The only decision I had to make after taking into account the wind and elevation (and a bit of slope in my lie) was where to finish my backswing. It is so similar to real life in trying to get that power right when you can't put a full, natural stroke on it. As it turned out I carried the ball too far to 155 yards and it rolled 44 feet past the hole. Not a great shot and it was due to having too much backswing. I knew it straight away but there wasn't anything I could do about it. (I don't like going long because the ball is always rolling further away and yet I do it so often.)

 

I should emphasize that you will be better served in becoming familiar with how much power to use and how shots react to external forces and circumstances than trying to use the slide-rule method. The more experience you gain, the less calculating you will need to do. From my experience, overthinking leads to uncertainty and uncertainty leads to forgetting about your swing routine as in the "anchored hand" technique for example. Doesn't that remind you of real life? I like to think of all this as education rather than training. Try to become comfortable standing over the ball which will in turn give you confidence and you'll be amazed how many good shots you'll start playing.

 

Having said that; look at this next video. I thought I'd done everything right - made my assessment - no complications - took some off - and I thought I had struck it perfectly -  but the result seemed to go against what my caddy told me and what I expected from my experience. It wasn't by much but it simply reinforces that fact that it's never going to be dead accurate. An old caddy for some big name Pros when asked why he gave yardages to the nearest 5 yards instead of the exact distance replied, "I've never seen any golfer that accurate". 

 

 

 

 

 

I have decided to give the 64 wedge it's own post because of it's versatility in being able to be played as a Full Shot as well as for Pitching and Chipping. 

 

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

The versatile 64 Wedge    (Full shots)

 

When I say 'the versatile 64 Wedge' maybe I just mean that I don't have to bother using any other club. The carry distance according to the caddy is 74 yards. I can play a full shot with the 64W and in some circumstances get the ball to roll out to 90 yards or more with a following wind or favourable slope. I can also chip the ball to 20 feet if I choose to. And of course it's the club I use for bunker play around the greens.

 

It seemed to me that the 'loftiest' club would be an asset in my bag to get me out of trouble when I needed to get the ball up in the air - to get me out of deep bunkers, to clear trees around the green, to get a softer landing when I've short-sided myself and so on. That's not to say that the 60 Wedge wouldn't be as effective and to drop the 64W from your bag would free up a spot for another club. But I took to the 64W and I have become used to its characteristics and I have built up my experience and therefore my confidence with it in my hands.

 

The following video demonstrates the varying distances I can hit the ball and retain control and accuracy. I use a simple method of watching the club head as it gets to the end of the backswing for every shot. It's a legitimate strategy and simulates the awareness of how much power you would use in real life in terms of length of backswing.

 

 

 

 

In the 4th shot in the video I bring the club to a straight vertical position and that is the length of backswing that relates to a 50 yard roll out in my calculations. That is the full roll out as opposed to the carry distance. That position, with the club pointing straight up, is my guide for the rest of the distances I am faced with. From there I can make reasonably accurate estimations of how much backswing I need for any distance from about 40 yards up to at least 80 yards. It's a simple method which means I don't have to refer to a yardage book or equivalent.

 

I've included the carry distances if you want to make a book. They will help if you have to carry a bunker or water or to plonk the ball where you would like it on the green. Remember that there is enough roll-out on the 64W to be influenced by whatever break there might be.

 

Of course, those shots are from a flat lie to a flat green and adjustments have to be made for slope, wind, stimp and undulations on the green but it's from that basic guide of the 50 yard vertical that I can negotiate each shot. It has taken away guess work and second guess work to an extent which has given me a lot of confidence around the green.

 

It certainly isn't infallible because the hard part is getting the club head to stop where you want it to be on the backswing. Plenty of practice and the ability we have of stopping the swing if we aren't comfortable certainly helps. It will never be inch perfect - and that's a wonderful thing.

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

 

The versatile 64 Wedge    (Pitching and chipping)

 

I like pitching. I like the air I get and the accuracy I'm starting to get in my game. I'm always looking for the pitch shot with the 64W and because I'm using that club for pitching and chipping I'm finding that I will use the Pitch Shot option even when I have a relatively easy, flat, short chip length shot. There is always some unwanted influence on the Chip Shot as it rolls out along the green especially at the longer distances. I would much rather carry the ball close to the hole and have it pull up quicker with the Pitch Shot. Having said that, I don't mind using the 64W for chipping and I've had my share of hole outs and gimmes with that shot.

 

The caddy always gives me the 64W in close to the green and suggests I chip it. I always give it straight back to him without comment. He'll never learn. You'll get the Chip Shot option by default at the bottom of a high bank and you'll never get the ball onto the green from some of those lies with a Chip Shot. Even a small one or two foot rise on the fringe can catch a chip badly. That's why I'll always decide on the Pitch in those circumstances.

 

The following videos show how Pitch and Chip Shots react on a flat, level surface at Woody's. As with the 64W Full Shots the positions of the club shaft or club head on the backswing and the subsequent carry, roll and final distance are guides to be used in conjunction with your nouse - your awareness, intellect and instinct. My suggestion would be to make a small list of the data in the videos and refer to them if you like this technique. I'm constantly referring to my Pitch Shot data on a scrap of paper which is always at the ready. As usual, the numbers aren't written in stone and you'll find you'll be surprised at some results. That's golf.

 

 

 

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

 

Bunker play

 

I'll refer you to this post which has a lot of good advice from much better golfers than me. The replies are in response to how to play short bunker shots.

 

Tips on playing short bunker shots

 

The only other advice is in playing shots from fairway bunkers but there's not a lot of advice I can give for long bunker shots. You can play a Full Shot which is no different from a shot from the rough. As we all know - we should all make sure we are going to clear the lip. I never mind a shot that comes up short. If you have 200 yards and you do happen to clear the lip with a 4 Iron or something there's a fair chance you'll miss the green anyway. An 8 Iron with loft still gets you within an accurate short iron for a par. There is nothing worse than catching the lip.

 

 

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[bortimus]

Excellent tips and explanations in this thread.  Just wanted to add a few thoughts on pitching as a supplement to your approach. 

 

If folks are finding it hard to follow the clubhead or judge small changes in it's movement during the backswing, here's another way to gauge distances:  

The belt has two loops visible during the pitching stance.  The contrast of the belt and the ani's skin tone makes it easy to see how the elbow moves along the belt during the backswing.  I like to use the relationship of the elbow to the loops as a makeshift distance meter when pitching.  

 

My references when pitching (for clarification these aren't referring to the video)  

Elbow touches top of first loop/ elbow covers first loop/ elbow halfway between loops/ elbow touches top of second loop/ elbow covers second loop...  lastly, when the front arm covers the space between the shirt and arms.

 

All of these landmarks are handy distances that can be used for references.  You can see in the videos how the elbow clearly follows the path of the belt.

 

Another reason I use the belt/elbow combo is that sloped lies affect this visual relationship less than the clubhead position in space. Since the clubhead is further away from the body, sloped stances will skew it's position more than a visual referent closer to the body's center.

Hold an imaginary club (or a real one)  and swing back to a position and hold it.  Now lean in any direction.  You can see that the clubhead might move several feet in the air but your arm/elbow position relative to your body has only moved a fraction of that distance.  

 

Enough of my blathering. Whichever method the player can visualize easiest will be helpful.  

 

Keep it up Ted!

[Ted_Ball]

Cool. Thanks Bortimus.

 

I've recalled the chopper and gone back out to Woody's to do a video with a slow backswing to show in detail where those increments are on the belt.

 

[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Putting

 

Forget what they say about RTS putting being too easy at the lower levels. I putt like any decent Pro I see on telly. Long putts drop. Long, straight putts drop fairly regularly. It doesn't seem to me that it's any more or any less than the success a good putter has in real life. You still have to read the break and elevation and speed. 

 

People use different methods to gauge the strength of the putt with the animation. I have tried to simplify the process but no-one in their right mind would use my method. It doesn't look at all precise and I agree. The thing is it works very well for me. I generally have around 27 putts per round. Sometimes worse, sometimes better. Maybe it's because I love putting - in real life and here. I think I've achieved a 'feel' for the distances and how they relate to the animation - the swing of the putter (not that I'm a great putter). What I really don't want to do is keep changing camera positions to obtain a better view. It's too fiddly and time consuming and I would rather build my abilities through experience (the same way I have mentioned in other lessons).

 

I play at a stimp of 12 mostly and use that as my base - altering the length of the backswing for different stimps. The video shows the positioning of the putter head for various distances at 12 stimp. The right shoe, on a line the foot is pointing, is 30 feet for a level putt. What seems to be the mid-point between the feet is 15 feet naturally enough.

 

 

 

 

For longer putts I make an estimation of how far to go back past the right shoe. It is reasonably accurate but there is a tendency for me to overhit. It's probably better to be a bit cautious (but then again, maybe not). 

 

It's the same for shorter putts and at a fast stimp of 13 I tend to hit it too far. Experience will always be your best guide and ten minutes of practice on Woody's or in practice rounds on course is invaluable. The art of putting is in the adjustments you make when faced with breaking putts and elevations. There can never be a formula that is universal and successful. You have to work at putting until you find your decisions are instinctive. The more you practice and the better you become as a putter the less of a problem those difficult long rollercoaster putts become because you will be more confident of making your next putt when you miss the approach lag putt.

 

I find I just about always miss the putt below the hole. I'm just not allowing enough for the break. I would call myself an average putter in PG but I would call myself above average in real life precisely because I always allowed more for the break. It's something I can't quite work out in PG but I'm slowly refining my aiming using BLI. It has always been my point that taking more green for a side break means that if you miss the hole the ball will be dying TOWARDS the hole. Read that again! Is there anything worse than missing below the hole and watching the ball go further and further away while you will it to stop?

 

There will be very few putts you'll have of any length that will be from the same spot on any given course so you have to make your assessments on the run. It's almost impossible to 'teach' putting other than a method for gauging power. There are probably many variations out there and I'm sure we'd all like to hear about them.

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Using the Shot Shaping tool

 

There are different opinions on the legitimacy of the Shot Shaper tool. I liken the left/right option to closing or opening your clubface in real life - a technique that I have used since I was a small boy. It came about for me because I had a dreadful slice as a kid and turning the club face in straightened those shots out to a degree. I see absolutely nothing wrong with having that option in PG.

 

When I'm faced with a need to slice a ball around trees for example  I will always use the Shot Shaper and put the dot extreme right. I'm not very successful at deliberately slicing a ball using the mouse path so the SS Tool helps a lot. If I have a shot from way left in the rough and trees and have to hook the ball severely I will put the dot way left and use it in conjunction with the mouse path draw with emphasis and even a quicker downswing to get that big hook.

 

 

The video shows the effect of an extreme left hook with a Driver and the more subtle draw by moving the dot a small way. I'm finding that I am using the Shot Shaper more and more from the fairway to give a bit more control if I'm losing some confidence in my mouse swing shaping. I have a 'natural' draw in general but as my mouse swinging gets a bit messy I can lose that so the Shot Shaping is good for those times when you need to move the ball.

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Drawing and Fading

 

There is nothing wrong with hitting the ball straight. Probably 90% of the time that would be your ideal shot. It's the other 10% where the ability to shape your drives and approach shots is invaluable in taking strokes off your game.

 

As I said, I have developed what I would like to think of as a 'natural draw" although I never mind if the ball goes straight off the club. I will aim a few yards right of my target on most shots expecting the ball to draw back that few yards. It's because of the way I sit, the way I place my hand on the mouse and on the mouse pad.

 

There are times when I can push a ball to the right and even slice the ball a long way right if I get lazy with my tempo and anchor. That seems fair to me but the real trick is to draw (or fade) with deliberate intention to allow you to put the ball in a better position. This where the Anchor Technique comes into its own.

 

The draw shot.

 

You will find that when you anchor the hand by the lower right side of the palm and the right side of the hand along the little finger you still have enough movement of the fingers to move the mouse laterally as well as forward and back. To draw a ball I will set the little finger and right side of the hand into a wall by pressing a bit harder down into the mouse pad with that right side of the hand and push the mouse slightly right towards that 'wall' if you understand.

 

It's a very subtle and small amount of movement but the resulting draw can be significant. I'm getting success in drawing a few yards with this technique and it looks great in the air. Slightly more push will give you more draw. With practice comes control. You can block the ball right or straight without draw because of a miss-tempo or swing path but a more deliberate push of the mouse to the right against the little finger line should make the ball draw.

 

I will also consciously but almost imperceptively bring the club (or mouse) back inside on the backswing - I would describe it as being a bit loose on the backswing which tends to bring the mouse back to the left. These movements are very subtle but the greater the movement in those directions the greater the shaping.

 

The fade shot.  

 

The same method but in the opposite direction can be used to fade the ball but it's a bit more unnatural for me and therefore I have less control.

 

 

 

For both drawing and fading with this technique I have to emphasize that you have to maintain that solid anchoring of the lower right side of the hand (near the wrist). When I decide to concentrate hard on the correct technique I invariably hit a good shot (at Amateur level).

 

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

And so ends this series of tutorials and advice - for what they're worth. I really hope someone gets enough information out of them to reduce their scoring and increase their enjoyment of this game. It is certainly worth persevering with Jack Nicklaus Perfect Golf because it is not only an excellent golf simulation but it is also an exceptional computer game in general. You can spend a lot of time playing this and I dare say as the game progresses and grows you will be spending a lot more time out on the course.

 

As a final source of interest and hopefully some enlightenment I'll do a video of a round of golf on a newly released course - one that I won't have played before. It will give an insight into how I think my way around a course and how I put into practice the things I have been discussing in this thread. I'll play it without set-ups or re-hits, straight off the stick, mistakes and all, and hopefully I won't make a goose of myself. It will also be a bit of fun for me.

 

Cheers

 

Ted

[JTee1]

 

 

The Set-up

 

The Set-Up for the Mouse Swing and the Real Time Swing with the mouse (on the vertical plane) is similar to the real golf swing in that it is important to have a solid grounding and balance and it is necessary to maintain a core around which the swing is based. 

 

A good anchoring of your hand in the Mouse Swing is as important as keeping your head still and not swaying back off the straight line of your spine in real golf. It is very difficult to bring the club head back to the ball to the optimum point time after time in real life once you have swayed off that line. It is important to replicate a good swing every stroke. Also - in real life there is an opinion that every full swing should be the same no matter which club you use. It is the same with the mouse swing.

 

To achieve that anchor I use the area of the hand just above the wrist opposite the thumb - the area shown by the green circle.

 

 

Once you have anchored that area - maybe one square inch - you restrict the extent you can move the mouse. I compare that anchor point to the left foot of the right-handed golfer. It is around that anchored foot and solid left side from the ground up through the left leg and up to the left shoulder that a golfer generates power plus consistency. Same with the mouse swing.

 

Of secondary importance is the right side of the right-handed mouse swingers hand - from the anchor point above the wrist right through to the end of the little finger - the light blue line in the above illustration. It is very much like the left side of the real right-handed golfer. Although the little finger moves during the backswing (pulling back the mouse) it is important to be aware of that right part of hand and to make sure it doesn't move too far left or right off a forward path. In fact I imagine that line to be an immovable wall even if it isn't in practice. This is extremely important in shot-shaping control which I will discuss in a later lesson.

 

It is from this solid base that all shots and the control of the ball flight is generated. I have found that I can get lazy with my swing and the ball will spray off line occasionally. It is always because I lose the anchor and my swing gets sloppy and my tempo probably gets thrown out. A quick talk to myself and a bit more concentration on the next shot generally fixes things.

 

We can't forget the importance of tempo in the mouse swing. It is something that would be hard to teach in this format and each golfer will have to burn that rhythm into their head. Having said that, I believe that the anchor technique I have described helps maintain your tempo because of the small amount of movement and a certain amount of muscle memory in the hand. I don't really consciously think about tempo as such, but I can go from a slow backswing on one shot to a faster backswing on another shot and make an adjustment during the swing to compensate. My advice would be to try to swing at the same speed all the time but you will eventually be able to become aware of changes in backswing speed with experience and then make adjustments on the fly.

 

 

 

The first thing you notice in my swing is the small amount of movement of the mouse by my hand and fingers if you can ignore the tell-tale liver spots. This comes about by the calibration of the mouse in the swing panel. It is probably the first lesson I would teach anyone in learning this technique and together with the anchoring of the wrist are the basic components that underpin the whole of your game from tee to green and, finally, into the hole. 

 

There is no need to move the mouse further than you have to to send the ball to the maximum distance of each club. I have set my Swing Meter Sensitivity to 1.50 which gives me a natural, easy movement of my hand and at the same time keeping the swing under control. There is a physical limit to the extent the hand can contort down or backwards and if your calibration is set ideally you will be able to go into the overswing area and feel it - this maintains control and restricts overswinging too far (which can muck up your tempo and send the ball way off line).

 

The calibration will be a personal thing which depends on the size of your hand and your flexibility. You will be able to decide how much movement back and forward the mouse will actually take to keep control and produce the results you want. My sensitivity is set so that from the start of the backswing to the top of the backswing feels natural and within the limits of how far I can pull my hand back while still maintaining a solid anchor. At the same time I can contract my hand and pull the mouse back just that little bit further to go into overswing.

 

I can't emphasize enough how important all the above is in maintaining consistency and control. I have a feeling some players are moving their hands across the mouse pad way too much to achieve what they believe is a means to replicate a real swing. The above methods have few moving parts. This is very important for later lessons in distance control and control of your shot shaping.

 

The small hand movement in the follow through - when you push the mouse forward - can seem a bit awkward and a bit unnatural. There is a feeling that you need to put more effort into the 'stroke' because it is such a small movement. I often swing too fast when playing approach shots when I feel that I don't have enough club. That causes the ball to hook. Nevertheless, once the stroke has been completed and the ball has been hit you can make a follow-through flourish which alleviates the feeling that you haven't 'swung' hard enough to send the ball to it's maximum length. The tempo has to be controlled until the ball is struck all the same. 

 

 

 

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My swing on the mouse is approximately 12" in movement. Its easier for me to keep tempo and straightness and feels more like an actual swing to me. If your off 1/16 of an inch in a 1" swing as you say above.  It would  equate to being off 12/16 or 3/4 of an inch in my 12" swing. I've found as I've enlarged my swing path the straighter  the ball flight has been for me. Food for thought and probably not for everyone. Nice read and thanks for helping the community.

[Ted_Ball]

To be honest JTee I've never tried playing with a longer mouse swing. I calibrated my mouse for MS before RTS and that's where I developed a compact swing to keep the curser in the ring. I'm too scared to try a long swing now - it might destroy everything I've built up.

 

But I take your point that it would feel more like an actual swing.

 

To the range.

[frank70]

I have a longer swing as well. If i am on i can build a rhythm with it. The backswing takes longer to develop and that gives me a chance to counteract if i feel that my take-back was slower or faster than normal.

 

But it is no blueprint to success. There are rounds where everything comes easy and i get the feeling that i "got the swing down" ....  only to be brought down to earth in the next round. It's, well, .... like real golf!!

[JTee1]

Ted I read your post long time ago on your motion swing setup and by accident was setting up a longer path of swing and just felt more comfortable to me.

Yea Frank it helps me with rhythm also, I catch myself on back swing going to fast at times then i correct my forward swing. I can just feel the tempo better i guess. 

No blueprint for sure, there are much better players out there then me. My fine motor skills ain't what they use to be. 

[Ted_Ball]

Before I've had a chance to try the long stroke method I've been converted to Horizontal swing. But I've turned my Swing Meter Sensitivity (and Swing Meter Short Game Sensitivity) up to 4.0 to give me a longer stroke. It feels much more comfortable and 'natural'.

[StoneComet]

I was determined to find the right set up so I could start improving with RTSH. I think I've found that I have to have my lower arm resting across the desktop so my  mouse pad and mouse are far forward close to the monitor's bottom right. Before I only had my hand resting on the desk just below the wrist. I'm certainly not the greatest but it seems to give me a more stable feel like Ted's palm anchor. I've set my sliders at 3.8 for now and my mouse pointer speed is centered and I seem to do better with the ratio with the pointer precision off. I still have a tendency on some strikes to take more than 3 seconds which puts me in the weeds every time.

 

I think I've whittled those down to less than 5 per round. Once I can eliminate those my scores should start dropping considerably. We will see, as only time will tell if I am really on to something. I can tell you one thing. I'm an expert at finding the rough.     

[Ted_Ball]

Stone, I've got my sliders at 3.8 as well. It's important to get that stroke length into a comfortable distance. My RTS-H was a much longer stroke than RTS-M. 

 

One thing that threw me with RTS-H was the path required for draw or fade. If you consider the path of your actual mouse as the path of a right-handed real golfer's clubhead I was seeing a draw as taking the mouse back slightly inside and finishing down and under in an arc like an inverted U. Sort of like rolling your hands over to produce that overspin of a draw. It was a stupid, uneducated mistake. In fact it's opposite. It makes much more sense to imagine the clubhead path coming from inside to outside.

 

The draw should finish high, the fade low in simple terms. I'm now taking the mouse back straight and finishing slightly high for the draw and low for the fade but it can be tricky to get the timing right and the amount of movement under control. Probably the best way would be to have a straight line from say 3.30 to 9.30 for the draw.

 

But I'm finding I've got a stock straight shot with my RTS-H anchor and I'm happy so far.

[footslogger]

Thanks for the tutorials, Ted, which I've only just looked at for the first time.  I'm just starting to play this great game regularly and I'm sure your advice and measurement scales for 64W pitch, chip and bunker shots will be particularly helpful - I've been very erratic up to now with these round-the-green shots.

[Ted_Ball]

After a long stint playing RTS-H I have switched back to RTS-M and thoroughly endorse that method once more.

 

I lost my ability to move the ball in the air with control using RTS-H. I was also having a lot of trouble maximizing my distance from the tee. There was some strange corruption creeping in to my swing which was also throwing the ball straight right.

 

It felt like donning an old pair of slippers when I went back to RTS-M. The controlled drawing and fading are back and has rekindled and re-inforced my love affair with RTS-M.