64 replies to this topic

[Ted_Ball]

I'd like to incorporate relevant information from those tutorials bortimus if that's OK? I'll quote you like they would quote a Hogan or a Nicklaus.

[bortimus]

Haha yeah that's fine. Use whatever you'd like.

[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Getting the tempo right

 

 

The JNPG application of tempo in the mouse swing is one of the truly ground-breaking innovations not just in golf games but computer gaming in general. It is so successful and natural and practical in it's application that you wonder why it hadn't been thought of before. Not only that but also one wonders how we could possibly do without it. It certainly took me by surprise.  

 

You can debate all you like about the 4:1 tempo innovation and whether it should be more or less than that specific ratio but it has now stood the test of time. I have analysed videos of real swings from members of this here forum and even though there is quite a difference in the ratios (between the start of the backswing to the top of the swing and the start of the downswing to contact with the ball) they all fell into a spread that was near enough to 4:1 that it didn't matter. The ratio that PP has chosen is neat, easy to use and is almost golden in the scheme of things.

 

The trick is though - you have to get the rhythm.

 

I think I made a mistake early on when I was trying to master the tempo. I was concentrating so hard on getting the tempo right I was tensing up. I was trying to get the tempo perfect and even though I thought I was 'on song' the results didn't bear that out. 

 

There has been advice in the past about how to get the beats counted in your head and that will certainly work as a method of drilling - much like marching. It is still only a means to an end. The end being the ability to achieve that tempo over and over without counting beats or even thinking about it.

 

My first successful breakthrough before RTS-M was imagining my swing as a real life swing. I had a vision in my head of a golfer swinging a club. When the RTS-M was introduced we had an animation to make that imagining a reality so it was becoming a bit easier to visualise and put it into practice.

 

 

If you look at the video of my swing captured by NVIDIA Shadowplay you can see that the backswing is steady and deliberate on the take away, has a pause at the top and a good strong swing through the ball. Amazingly that is how I wished I could swing in real life. In JNPG I feel like I have a slow swing - almost too slow although looking at the video it seems to be at a realistic pace (apart from the overlong pause at the top which is possibly something to do with the transition of the animation rather than how I actually swing). My theory here is that I can control the length of the backswing more precisely and get closer to the 100% mark than if I had a faster swing.

 

The problem is that the downswing has to stay close to the ratio of 1 in the 4:1. That means I have to be consciously steadier - or slower if you like - on the downswing. As I mentioned earlier I tend to swing forward too fast to compensate for using less club than I think I need which is a psychological flaw that I'm working on. As a rule (for myself) - "Easy on the downswing"

 

But all that doesn't really address how to get rhythm and a good ratio happening. There's no better teacher than practice and experience. If you embrace my Anchor Technique for swinging with the mouse I am pretty sure you will start to build a repetitive rhythm and that is mainly due to the short travel distance of the mouse. It gets harder to go wrong.

 

I can confess that I don't think about my tempo very often now. Mind you, I know when a bad tempo has contributed to a wayward shot and I will go back to basics in my anchoring and rhythm smartly. Amazingly again, there is a parallel with my real game and I used to know immediately that my swing was too fast (just about every damn shot). Once you have those two basics organised you will find that your shot making will be consistently straighter.

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

Choosing the clubs in your bag

 

 

14 clubs just aren't enough.

 

It's a personal thing - which clubs to have in your bag - but I suppose there is some strategy that I could pass on.

 

 

If you put in the clubs that are must-haves - Driver, 3 Wood and Putter - then you are have to choose 11 clubs to get you through the round and to cover as many circumstances as you can.

 

I try to cover the distances up to the 247 yards of the 3 Wood without having large distance gaps. For that reason I've left out the Hybrids. Someone could say that's pretty stupid because hybrids might be great for playing out of the rough or some other benefit. I simply don't know. Of the rest there is the gap between the Pitching Wedge and the 8 Iron that concerns me the most but I can't see which club to drop to fill that gap.

 

At the lower extreme I have chosen the 64W and I've built my short game around that club. To me having a club with the most loft is almost a no-brainer but I have heard from other people that they prefer not to use it. I would like to hear from others on this subject. Since I have settled on the 64W I have become familiar with it's attributes and it covers a lot of different shot types from more than 80 yards down to 25 feet. It has to be there.

 

Of the longer clubs my go-to is the 7 Wood. I use it a lot and I can hit it much further than it's carry distance of 214 yards with carry and roll out or I can use it like a rescue club from the rough or I can hit it much shorter as well taking into consideration wind, elevation, lie and so on. The 5 Wood is only there to fill the gap between the 3 Wood and the 7 Wood.

 

I've left out the 6 Iron because I can cover the distance gap between the 5 Iron and the 7 Iron by hitting a bit long or short and I don't think it's that critical to be accurate at that distance. In other words I don't expect to be pinpoint accurate from 175 yards out. I could substitute the 6 Iron for the 5 iron for the same reason.

 

I wanted to keep all the wedges because it IS important to be accurate when you are that close to the pin. It's also better to be hitting full shots in close to the green.

 

 

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[Pappy]

We match on the club's except I carry 9I rather than 8 - done that since the beginning. But the reason I carry all the wedges is for the pitching benefits. Can't tell ya the up and downs I got from horrible lies and occasional hole outs. And green bunkers and close fw bunkers.

[Parkle]

Good points Parkle.

 

To be honest I never checked the dpi when I bought this $15 mouse not so long ago. Here are the settings in the control panel for pointer speed...

 

 

Maybe someone has other opinions on this issue and could help out.

 

I have the Swing Meter Short Game Sensitivity set to 2.0.  In fact I have never fiddled around with that setting mainly because it didn't occur to me. I'll do some further tests and add my conclusions when I get to the short game.

 

There are other considerations that will be explained in the Tempo post.

Thanks Ted.  OK  so you have the mouse speed on halfway in the Windows settings. I'm not sure exactly what that equates to in dpi terms but I have a feeling it is 800 ?  I'm sure someone can confirm or correct that.  Also  you have "enhance pointer precision" ticked which I think means acceleration is enabled. I think many would have that turned off but I haven't done any tests as to the difference in this game of having it on or off.   For me SMS at 1.5 and dpi at 800  would be too quick to control but you use a fingertip control method so I guess that works for you.  Currently I have SMS at 3.5 and dpi at 600 !  But  not fingertip control.

[wim1234]

you need to experiment with these settings, for me turning offf the enhanced pointer did loads of good, also for

other mousesteered games yay

[scajjr29]

Thanks Ted.  OK  so you have the mouse speed on halfway in the Windows settings. I'm not sure exactly what that equates to in dpi terms but I have a feeling it is 800 ?  I'm sure someone can confirm or correct that.  Also  you have "enhance pointer precision" ticked which I think means acceleration is enabled. I think many would have that turned off but I haven't done any tests as to the difference in this game of having it on or off.   For me SMS at 1.5 and dpi at 800  would be too quick to control but you use a fingertip control method so I guess that works for you.  Currently I have SMS at 3.5 and dpi at 600 !  But  not fingertip control.

Yes the "enhanced pointer precision" is acceleration. Uncheck the box and see how your pointer slows down. Also remember that the Windows settings are still running even if you use any software that came with your mouse and can effect how they work.

 

I have been using a Logitech Trackman Marble Mouse Trackball for RTM swings in golf games since Sierra's PGA99. For me once you get the settings right controlling the swing with a simple forward and back roll of the trackball with my index finger really gives you the "feel" aspect of a swing.

 

Sam

[Pappy]

Really Sam! That might work for those laid up in bed etc with some malady. Since I'm at that "critical" age will check trackball prices (also working on laptop prices lol - heck with the mortgage bill, if I had one)

[scajjr29]

Really Sam! That might work for those laid up in bed etc with some malady. Since I'm at that "critical" age will check trackball prices (also working on laptop prices lol - heck with the mortgage bill, if I had one)

$23 on Amazon https://www.amazon.c... trackball    .

This model is nice because you can use it right or left handed as the buttons can be reversed using the software. I use it because I like the control and feel just moving a finger rather than trying to move arm/wrist a longer distance. As the trackball base stays put just moving a finger to me gives me better, consistent movement. There is a wireless model, the M570, but it's a thumb controlled ball and is right hand only.

 

Sam

[wim1234]

Yes the "enhanced pointer precision" is acceleration. Uncheck the box and see how your pointer slows down. Also remember that the Windows settings are still running even if you use any software that came with your mouse and can effect how they work.

 

I have been using a Logitech Trackman Marble Mouse Trackball for RTM swings in golf games since Sierra's PGA99. For me once you get the settings right controlling the swing with a simple forward and back roll of the trackball with my index finger really gives you the "feel" aspect of a swing.

 

Sam

hello sam

wow , that is a new idea to me and i am willing to try that one out.

my hands are kinda unstable, so i already use an achoremethod ala ted does, but i use mouseswing -h for now.

the lenght aspect of rts i cannot get right.

[scajjr29]

hello sam

wow , that is a new idea to me and i am willing to try that one out.

my hands are kinda unstable, so i already use an achoremethod ala ted does, but i use mouseswing -h for now.

the lenght aspect of rts i cannot get right.

I am 62, have mild arthritis in both hands, broke right wrist 9 yrs ago as well. If I hadn't been using the trackball already I would have switched then.  I have a nice padded gel wrist rest that sits under the right wrist so my right arm from the elbow forward is basically straight with my hand resting on the trackman's body (forearm is on armrest of chair). With the setting I use it doesn't require much finger movement to repeat a nice smooth "swing" with any of the 3 golf games I play (World Golf Challenge 2011, TGC and JNPG).

May not be for everybody but I always struggled with trying to "swing" with a regular mouse.

Sam

[Ted_Ball]

 

 

Driving

 

 

The drive sets up the hole. It can tell you as soon as the ball leaves the club whether you are going to have a birdie chance or a hell of a struggle to make your par or worse. On a Par 5 it can make the difference between an approach shot with 64 wedge or a 4 iron. 

 

The standard carry distance for the Driver is 271 yards. With roll out you can add a standard distance of about 25 yards. Yet not every shot is standard. In fact every shot is almost completely different if you are talking about direction and distance with the variations on all the courses in terms of elevation and undulations and firmness. And then there is the influence of wind. Having said that you will mostly rip it as far as you can. But should you?

 

There is more discrepancy in distance and direction with the driver than any other club and there will probably be more obstacles in the way than with shorter clubs. There are ways to maximise the potential of the driver.

 

The great thing about playing at Amateur, Hacker or Beginner is that is forgiving and that means you can swing a bit harder without losing your ball. The legacy of starting at harder levels for me was that I would swing conservatively - not wanting to go into overswing and losing control. I still haven't shaken that careful approach and generally swing just below 100%. If you have learnt some consistency with your swing you will be able to swing that bit harder and gain 30 yards without too much risk. 

 

 

In the video the first shot is at a conservative 96% for a 295 yard shot. That is my stock shot. The second shot is pushing into an overswing by pulling the mouse back further than normal and is 118% for a 312 yard shot. You can see that extra press at the top and looks like the avatar is straining back to his limit. You have to bear in mind that your downswing will have to be slightly quicker than normal to maintain the 4:1 ratio or close to it. It's worth trying for that extra distance on holes that have generous, wide fairways. It can also be a real stroke saver on Par 5s.               The Par 5, 2nd at Massachusetts is a good example where you can turn a lay-up second shot into a definite eagle chance by being able to carry the water and landing on the green.

 

The third shot in the video is taking plenty off the driver with a shorter swing. Look at the position of the clubhead. At 88% the ball travels 265 yards with a 230 yard carry. A good way to avoid trouble but still getting good yardage. Notice how low the ball flies in the third shot. This video gives you a good example of how versatile the Driver can be by the range of distances it is capable of.

 

I always check the default path using F3 which each course has designated. You can't really rely on that aim point to be the best option. You have to take into account wind, the slope of the fairway, any creeks or bunkers or  encroaching trees as well as the best spot for your approach. You should, therefore, take personal responsibilty for aiming from the tee. I've enjoyed playing some courses lately where you have an option to go over the trees from the tee. There are also plenty of courses that tempt the golfer to fly the water. It pays to have a look at a course before a tournament to find out if the percentages for those shots are in your best interests.

 

In this next video of the classic 5th Hole at Danville Acres there is a decision to make which can mean a triple bogey or a standard birdie. This example can also be applied to any dogleg hole. It's always a good idea to F3 fly to the landing area and see if there is a way to take a few yards off your approach shot. Check the carry distance but also check the roll out to see if there is a chance you'll roll through the fairway and into the far rough.

 

 

Even though you might be playing at Amateur or Hacker or Beginner there will still be times when the ball wanders off the straight path. If you use the anchor technique you will find that the ball will go where you want it a lot more consistently. But I err on the side of caution when there are dangers within the driver distance. If a creek is at 286 yards I don't necessarily pull out the driver. It's very hard to predict the amount of roll out or even how well you have played the shot. I also find there is a lot of cross-rough at the Driver's range. It's better to have a good lie and know how far your next shot will go than make a calculation from the long grass just because you wanted to maximise your distance. These are all pretty basic rules to follow but it's amazing how often we all end up realising we've made a bad decision.

 

One final tip. I always take a second or two to move the aiming point even on a straight fairway rather than just blast away at the default aim point. It's a little thing that focuses your mind and gets things moving - much like a waggle or any routine in real golf.

 

 

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[gravedodger]

If ever a thread needed to be stickied to the top, this is it, fantastic tutorials and explanations, thank you for putting the time and effort in Ted, it's much appreciated mate 

[wim1234]

welldone Ted, even if i dont use rts, i def like to read your clinics.

[Ted_Ball]

Thanks guys. A pleasure.

[Ted_Ball]

 

Fairway woods and Long irons

 

This is a short lesson on shots to the green from a long way out. I'll go into a bit more detail when I get to approach shots in a later lesson.

 

There are many different scenarios when you are faced with a shot to a green of 200 yards or longer. Generally the green will be protected by bunkers but occasionally there will also be opportunities to run the ball onto the green. At that distance accuracy becomes something that you can't rely on so in a situation where there are no hazards near the green I'll just take aim and throw it in the general direction. Sometimes you'll get lucky and sometimes not. If it's a Par 4 then I'm not really expecting a birdie from that distance. 

 

It will depend on the clubs you have in your bag just how accurate you can be distance wise but I've never been concerned if I land in a sand trap and, in fact, there will be times when I want to finish there. The only tip I would give to avoid a bogey is to make sure you put a good swing on it - even though I'm saying I'm just bombing it in without any real concern. At those distances a miss hit can go way wide of the green and into trouble.

 

I have to mention the decision you might have regarding playing the Driver off the fairway. The following video shows a situation where it is possible to get an advantage. At 279 yards and in those conditions the 3 Wood won't reach the green and a lay up for an easy pitch to the flag is a good option. If you want to be aggressive the Driver can work but I find that shot is inconsistent and inaccurate and I rarely use it. There might be other opinions.

 

It took several shots to get that result and most times the result had no advantage over the 3 Wood. You should take into consideration that the Driver will fly low and note that I have raised the Shot Shaper. I don't know if it made much difference to the result but I wanted to get the ball up in the air thinking I might get more carry.  Anyway, the ball carried 243 yards.

 

 

 

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[Ted_Ball]

 

Playing from the rough

 

In the video the caddy has given me a 7 Iron for an elevated 168 yard shot. The rough penalty for the 7 Iron is 15% which gives me no hope of reaching the green. As I choose longer clubs the penalty increases so I have to do a quick calculation to find a suitable club. There won't be much choice in this situation and in my bag the choice will only between the 4 Iron or the 7 Wood.

 

The 4 Iron attracts a 19% penalty. Quick calculation. 10% of 199 yards equals 20 yards. Double it. So take 40 yards off 199 and I should get 160 yards carry distance. I'll take into account the fact that I'll have a 20% loss of spin which should roll the ball out up the incline. I like to add loft to any shot out of deep rough because those shots have a tendency to fly low.

 

 

My other option is to take a reduced swing of my 214 yard 7 Wood. The 5W and 7W attract less penalty in the rough (19% for the 4I but maybe 10% for the 7W) and they are my go-to clubs for longer distances. Even though my 7W has a carry distance of 214 yards I would still use it for a distance to the hole down to about 160 yards. You can always take something off the swing. If there was danger short of the green or more elevation I would certainly use the 7W. Of course it depends on the clubs you have in your bag but you'll still only have to make a choice between two clubs.

 

 

It's also a good idea to give yourself plenty of clearance from tree trunks. The collision detection for some trees seems to be an invisible margin of maybe two or three feet. Sometimes it is a lot more!

 

 

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[Charles]

Well! What a great idea and what a great input! This post should be pinned. It's a fountain of information for newbies and 'old hands' alike. Very nice Ted. Thank you very much for all this hard work. I will be looking into this for some time. Once finished (if ever..) it should be great to have this in a pdf format or something. One could also print it out and keep as a reference booklet. Nice going Ted! Beautiful!!

[Ted_Ball]

Thanks Charles and thanks to Forum Admin for the sticky.